RAW Collection

In my previous post I briefly mentioned my recent climbing trip to Lundy, an Island in the Bristol Channel. The island is a mass of granite which towers above the Bristol Channel at the point where it meets the Atlantic. It is 3 mile in length and is located 12 miles north of Harland Point in Devon, which is itself has a variety of climbing but on rather different rock.

We arrived at Ilfracombe, Devon to catch the 10am boat to Lundy, a two hour crossing, and prepared for the worst. The boat, M.S. Oldenburg, is used in the shallows, it has a flat bottom and therefore rolls a lot when at sea. The result is an interesting and ‘fluid’ crossing to an island that appeared out of the mist. After the crossing on moderate seas we were all glad to be back on dry land and the 13 of us, from Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club, made our way to the village to check in. We had a few hours to explore the island and climb a few routes before our accommodation, the Barn, was open.

The Barn on Lundy

The Barn has two sleeping areas, a kitchen and a large living room complete with a fire place, more on that later. The climbing was superb, and some one in the  team was out every day. We tended to spread out over the island which has around 28 permanent residents, rather than all climb on the same crag. The first few days were quite windy and cold but climbing was not difficult but you soon got cold sitting around at the top of the routes.

It rained for most of one day when only two of the team climbed. Some of the team took the rain to their advantage and had a rest day whilst other partook in the alternative activity of letterbox collecting. The challenge is  similar to orienteering, you search the island with a map and some clues to find hidden letterboxes which contain a stamp to mark your notebook. Its great for climbers on a wet day or for anyone else on a better day.

Tom on Satan's Slip - The Devil's Slide, Lundy

Most of the climbing is on the west of the island with only a few crags on the east of the island, including the Knights Templar. There are two stunning pieces of rock on the west. The Devil’s Slide is a perfect slab of rock some 120 meters (400 feet) high which rises (or plunges) from the Atlantic Ocean. The slab has a variety of routes, the classic of the island, The Devil’s Slide - Hard Severe, takes the right hand of the slab and Albion, graded VS, takes the left of the slab.  The slab also offers harder routes in the middle of the slab.  The other stunning piece of rock is the Diamond located just to the north of the Devil’s Slide. It boasts a number of hard routes from E3 to E6 and you have to see it to believe it.

After the mid week rain I was able to climb the Devils Slide whilst Dale and Tom climbed Satan’s Slip – E1 to our left. I was comfortable with the climbing and placed protection when i could, which was not too often. We linked the first two pitches together and we also did the last two pitches together making it a 3 pitch route. Tom and Dale decided to solo the route after we had finished and I was able to get quite a few photos of them climbing without ropes or protection.

Lundy has a number of properties which are available to rent. I believe they are all self catering accommodation but there is also a tavern which serves food all day and a shop which is adequately stocked.  There is also a museum and three lighthouses. The Old Light is located in the middle of the island and was built too high to be useful. It light is to high to be seen when the fog is low and the steep cliffs of Lundy can also block the beacon from view. As a result the island now has a north and south light to warn craft of the deadly cliffs and shallows around the Island. The Island also has a working farm, it is an SSSI and was the UK’s first marine nature reserve. Apart from the permanent human residents and hordes of tourist the island has a host of wildlife such as Seals, Puffins, Soay Sheep, Sika Deer, Goats and the endemic plant species, Lundy Cabbage. Lundy has a long history of human inhabitants from as long as 7000 years ago.  It is currently owned by the National Trust and maintained by the Landmark Trust.

Buildering at Dusk

The team visited many of the Islands crags but left much exploring to be done. Lundy is the type of place where exploring is essential to find its hidden gems rather than been handed them on a plate.  My last climbing day was spent on the flying buttress, a massive pillar of rock than leans against the main land creating a bridge at the top and an island at the base. It was a impressive place to climb and the weather was perfect for the last day. Once back at the Barn we all rushed out to grab some shots of the sunset when I was able to capture some good shots of Tom buildering on the old light.

Unloading of the bags in Ilfracombe

Our last day on the Island invlolved playing Scrabble in the beer garden and waiting to board the boat. The weather had been good to us and the sea was much calmer for the return leg. We had book the barn two years ago which seems so long but went so fast.  The Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club will be going back to Lundy and I also plan to return, so watch this space.

You can find a selection of pictures in my gallery by clicking here.

It was a fine weekend climbing in Pembroke over the bank holiday. The area we visited is a MOD firing range, Castlemartin range, and is separated into two areas, range west and range east. Range east is open to the public on weekends and has a stunning costal walk and range west is closed to the public. Any one wishing to enter range west must attend a range briefing and have a pass for that day. The briefings are held on a number of occasions throughout the year and one was held on Saturday. The number of people attending the briefing this weekend greatly surpassed the number in attendance during my previous visits. After a manic rush to the guard house it was clear that we would fail to get a climbing pass for the day (only 30 climbers are allowed on range west at any one time) Peter and I therefore opted to climb on range east which does not have the same restrictions.

We found ourselves climbing on a busy Stennis head. It was getting towards the end of the day when two climbers set out to tackle Pleasure Dome – E3 5c. I only had my point and shoot but managed to get a few good shoots. The one to the right is the best on of this unknown climber. (continue reading…)

Today I visited the scenic Wye Valley for a spot of climbing with a few friends. The forecast was good and we arrived early. Monika and I set about a HS whilst Peter and Si tackled a HVS. One thing led to another and soon i was battling my way up Organ Grinder (HVS 5a) whist Peter tried the route next to me, Five Pints (E3 6a). Peter lead it in great style and i just had to try seconding it. The route passed through a roof at its widest part(crux) before delicately climbing the wall above. The crux was brutal and involved quite a stretch to an ok hold, you then get your feet high and power for a crack. You then have to stay on long enough to place gear before moving up onto the wall above were interest is maintained until the finish.

I tried the crux a few times, climbing up and down like a yo-yo. Third time (or maybe the fourth or fifth…) i managed to latch the crack/flake and hauled myself up onto better foot holds. Once back on the ground i was tempted to lead the route. After gentle persuasion, and shedding the masses of unwanted metal from my climbing rack, I found myself on the crux move wondering why I was doing this and how much easier it felt on a top rope. “Just a few moves to make, the gear is good! Breath! Relax!” I told myself. Then I was there, hanging from a small hold stretching up to a better one, just inches away from my fingertips. Peter shouted words of encouragement as my finger tips curled onto the better hold above. My feet dance up the rock and finally land on a good foot hold. Now bridging out to the left and holding on with both hands I must let go with one hand and find some protection that will fit. The crack is large and a nut fits it without a problem. I continue moving upwards, balancing on tiny holds, another couple moves and a thread is my protection before making the final moves, my arms still aching and pumped from the crux. Its over, I am safe, I just need to get down now…